Menswear

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Master Gunner
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Re: Menswear

Postby Master Gunner » 25 May 2012, 10:45

I've not heard of them either.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 25 May 2012, 10:46

What.
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Master Gunner
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Re: Menswear

Postby Master Gunner » 25 May 2012, 10:49

I also pay absolutely no attention to shoes when I am not actively shopping for them, and I do not know anybody who would wear such things.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 25 May 2012, 14:35

Never heard of them either. Also, how the hell can you even walk on those things? They must be floppy as hell. (Then again, I've always been difficult and wear hiking shoes as standard)
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Re: Menswear

Postby Avistew » 25 May 2012, 20:17

Hadn't heard of Toms, either, but then again I'm hardly the target demographic. The article is pretty interesting though, that kind of marketing happens a lot, and people are willing to pay more to "help out", or rather have proof that they did, in a lot of contexts.
But the same people are less likely to donate money on their own.

Not that people should be forced to do so, obviously, especially if they can't afford it, but if that's their excuse for buying these shoes... I mean, I don't personally have a problem with how the shoes look, and they look like they might be comfy (I could be wrong) but I'd never pay that much for a pair.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Master Gunner » 26 May 2012, 15:57

Well, what do you know? For some reason, I looked at my Facebook today, and guess what someone still "friended" from high school just bought?

Well, as good a reason as any to start the purge.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Geoff_B » 27 May 2012, 00:17

That sounds ominous...
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 27 May 2012, 06:42

I can't believe I convinced myself to buy another wool tartan tie.

But it was a red, green, and white MacGregor! It'll be perfect at Christmas!

Shut up, you.

Now I have, like, seven wool tartan ties. This is ridiculous.
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Re: Menswear

Postby The Jester » 27 May 2012, 09:10

Clearly, your only recourse is a woollen, tartan Tiethulu.

While searching for an instructional image, I found this:

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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 27 May 2012, 14:21

Ok, guys. Pick the suit to pieces.

My problems:

Shoulders a touch wide.
Sleeves too long.
Wish it were a touch thinner in the waist.
Waistband on trousers too tight (know you can't see it, but true)
Pant legs too long.

Return? Or try to get tailored?
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Re: Menswear

Postby Duckay » 27 May 2012, 14:29

I know I'm far from the most educated on the matter of suits, but the suit coat looks too big in every dimension to me.

But then, if the waistband of your trousers is too small, there's not much that can be done about that, bar lose weight or get new trousers. Unless it's easier to take out trousers than i've been led to believe?
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Re: Menswear

Postby Matt » 27 May 2012, 14:40

The shoulders aren't really obviously too wide, but everything else about it is, and if the pants don't fit, then you may be better off just taking it back, and look at going to mix match pants and jackets to get the right fit.

If there's room in the pants to let them out, (and in suit pants there usually is) then you may be ok. Your pants will need to be hemmed regardless. Your sleeve can be tailored to length easily and cheaply. The jacket can be narrowed in the torso if need be, but that will be more expensive.

If you feel that the shoulder is legit too big though, that can't be fixed for a cost that's worth your while.

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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 27 May 2012, 14:47

@ Jack; Yeah, the shoulders look sort of ok, but the sleeves are definitely too long by a couple inches and the pants need to be waaaay shortened. Slimming and trimming through the body would be good too.

As for style, I like the buttoning point but to me the gorge (place where the notch lies on the lapel) is a touch high and the lapels a touch narrow. Of course, this is the fashionable style now. YMMV.

Pants. This is a bit weird but I think we need a butt shot. My last suit I squeezed in to the pants so the jacket would fit and I now regret it.

@Matt I think I've seen them at Payless before, otherwise US amazon will probably have them (not that that helps either of us). I'm looking for no-show socks right now as my new sneaks rub a spot on my pinky toes real bad.
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 27 May 2012, 14:55

Matt wrote:The shoulders aren't really obviously too wide, but everything else about it is, and if the pants don't fit, then you may be better off just taking it back, and look at going to mix match pants and jackets to get the right fit.


Seriously, what are these alleged mix and match places? I have never seen them. It's suits as a whole everywhere.

@Met: The pants are too tight, but I say that of every goddamn pair.

Edited to remove uncalled for negativity.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Matt » 27 May 2012, 15:12

Every suit store I've ever been to has had a separate section for pants and jackets, that you can pair, precisely for the reasons you're encountering here. I dunno if the menswear shopping culture in AUS is different or what, but they're pretty standard around here.

OTR matched suits just don't fit everyone.

-m

edit: I like the stripe in that suit though - nice looking.
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 27 May 2012, 15:48

It may well be true out here too, Matt. But I don't know the right suit shops, clearly.

Still tempted to try and get it to work. It was only $200.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 27 May 2012, 16:43

Why? You only need one, maybe two suits, right? And I know you have the money. Invest in yourself.

My only caveat for style would be that pinstripes are mostly only suitable for business, at least over here. Solid is more versatile.
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 27 May 2012, 18:23

metcarfre wrote:Why? You only need one, maybe two suits, right? And I know you have the money. Invest in yourself.


I have a history of poor returns.

I just finished a session with a tailor, and am spending roughly 1.3k on a MTM suit. And I admit, it's just unbelievably difficult for me to be happy about that.

I guess this is the ultimate truth: I don't value clothes. Never have. Doubt I ever will. I've come to realise that looking good, like many things, takes either a lot of effort or a lot of money. And, well, fine. I'll spend the cash. But I just can't see why people like doing all this.

Tailor was a nice guy, though. Enjoyed chatting with him during the fitting and measuring, etc.

Oh, and yes. Solid charcoal, dark, nice fabric with some texture to it. Peak lapels. Basically a dressy business suit that is aimed more at nights out than days at the office.
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Re: Menswear

Postby UnarmedOracle » 27 May 2012, 18:59

Sorry to intrude, but I've just returned to my recurring summer position with a Calgary energy company. My office maintains a "business casual" dress code, which means that the men usually wear the trousers from a suit with either a light blue or a ...'fun' dress shirt worn sans tie, no jacket, and black belt and shoes. I've tried to learn their ways and adapt, but honestly this style looks horrible on me -- dark trousers and a light shirt make my upper body look shorter and broader than it already is, while narrowing my legs. In short, it takes an anatomy that alludes to poultry and turns me into King Chicken.

I've taken to wearing chinos in grey or cream, a dress shirt worn open at the collar under a lightweight knit or cardigan, unfashionably broad tie tied in a four-in-hand, and brogues. I'm trying to limit my palette to blues and greys because I am still trying to blend in, but bitch please -- a man has to dress. Sometimes I untuck my shirt under the knit to create a contrasting border.

I've decided that I have a part to play, and so I'll dress appropriately -- as a hungover prep school student. I get a lot of what I'm choosing to interpret as positive attention and questions about where I find my shoes.

Given enough money, I want to grow my wardrobe into something approximating Earth's nerd boyfriend, Joseph Dreamboat-Levitt. To do this, I'll need jackets. Considering the climate, linen seems appropriate, but man, you need like, 3 of them to give some variety and they have no utility to me besides summer. Add to this that I'm already skirting the weight limit of the one suitcase I'm living out of you can see my predicament. I like the attention that I'm getting but I need help to keep things lively.

Suggestions?
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Re: Menswear

Postby Matt » 27 May 2012, 19:09

Oh man, you finally got around to joining the thread.

I wish to feed off your brain juices.

Advice: a second suitcase allows you to double your weight limit, and only costs 35$ to haul back.

:p

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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 27 May 2012, 20:59

Unstructured cotton jackets are a reasonable (and, generally, reasonably-priced) alternative. Were Calgary in the South rather than, you know, Alberta, I'd suggest seersucker. Tropical-weight wool can be your friend, too.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 28 May 2012, 08:12

JackSlack wrote:
metcarfre wrote:Why? You only need one, maybe two suits, right? And I know you have the money. Invest in yourself.


I have a history of poor returns.

I just finished a session with a tailor, and am spending roughly 1.3k on a MTM suit. And I admit, it's just unbelievably difficult for me to be happy about that.

I guess this is the ultimate truth: I don't value clothes. Never have. Doubt I ever will. I've come to realise that looking good, like many things, takes either a lot of effort or a lot of money. And, well, fine. I'll spend the cash. But I just can't see why people like doing all this.

Tailor was a nice guy, though. Enjoyed chatting with him during the fitting and measuring, etc.

Oh, and yes. Solid charcoal, dark, nice fabric with some texture to it. Peak lapels. Basically a dressy business suit that is aimed more at nights out than days at the office.


1.3k is a lot of money, but that MTM suit is going to last a long time, and can probably be repaired if the worst happens. That $200 suit? Not going to last as long, and repairs are most likely going to be a lot harder to make (OTR clothing is notorious for having as little waste as possible, including in sewing "overcut" (whatever you call it, can't remember the name right now))

It's a bit like that $50 boots versus $10 boots thing.
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 28 May 2012, 16:28

I guess so, Dutch Guy. I admit to just feeling a bit put out by it. I mean, one of two things can happen here.

1. I get it, it still has issues. Message is clear: Not even 1.3k will work to make me look good. I should give up now.
2. I get it, it looks great on me. Message is clear: It will cost me 1.3k to look good, and nothing I do cheaper is going to cut it.

I think I'd prefer option 1. I'm uncertain, but...
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Re: Menswear

Postby Matt » 28 May 2012, 16:46

Jack: suits are pretty versatile.

Once you've GOT it, you don't need to drop 1300$ on another one for YEARS to come.

3 or 4 well-fitted shirts in white, light blue, and a couple of colors, with ties to match (ideally that you can mix and match), black and brown belts and shoes, a couple of pocket squares, and you have DOZENS of combinations, all of which will look great.

yeah, it's 1300$, but it does all the heavy lifting, all you need to do is apply the details.

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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 05 Jun 2012, 08:25

Here's a really helpful guide to bespoke I found. Jack, you might want to take a look; http://www.thestyleblogger.com/9213/a-comprehensive-guide-to-buying-bespoke-clothing/
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