Menswear

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Keab42
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Re: Menswear

Postby Keab42 » 01 May 2012, 10:32

What do you have against sleeves coming down that far when your arms are by your sides?
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 01 May 2012, 10:46

Just to forewarn you - we are treading into 'rules' territory.

For a (lounge/business) suit, the ideal sleeve length should be such that the sleeve ends just on, or slightly above, the wristbone. This, in turn - assuming a 'proper'-fitting shirt, allows the wearer to expose 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve. Eg, from Kiyoshi;
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Almost perfect fit in all regards.
“Get a well-fitting suit, a fitted shirt, a solid pair of leather-soled shoes and a nice necktie — and never worry again about needing something nice to wear on short notice.”

However, it should be noted that for the purposes of an overcoat - like a raincoat, or a pea coat - it's best if the sleeves are longer and cover all that business. My own overcoat is a tad short in this regard.
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Ayailla
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Re: Menswear

Postby Ayailla » 01 May 2012, 12:20

That does look very good.

Also, Geoff... no pics of the tux in particular. Makes me look fat and horrible. :P
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Re: Menswear

Postby Geoff_B » 01 May 2012, 13:18

So get a new tux :P
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The Jester
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Re: Menswear

Postby The Jester » 01 May 2012, 13:59

Or form a new opinion of yourself. We can help with that! ;)
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Keab42
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Re: Menswear

Postby Keab42 » 01 May 2012, 14:05

metcarfre wrote:Just to forewarn you - we are treading into 'rules' territory.

For a (lounge/business) suit, the ideal sleeve length should be such that the sleeve ends just on, or slightly above, the wristbone. This, in turn - assuming a 'proper'-fitting shirt, allows the wearer to expose 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt sleeve.


I find that uncomfortable, because when I then raise my arms into any position other than straight down I expose a good 2-3 inches of shirt, and the jacket just looks too small.
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 01 May 2012, 14:12

Well, generally, that's indicative of a suit that doesn't fit well in other places, particularly low armholes.
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Keab42
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Re: Menswear

Postby Keab42 » 01 May 2012, 15:06

For me they generally don't fit well across the shoulders. I'm too wide. Either that or Quasimodo...
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 01 May 2012, 15:11

All part of the problem. Shoulders are simultaneously the most difficult and most important element to have fit well in a suit. Almost every other factor can be satisfactorily modified by a tailor.
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Master Gunner
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Re: Menswear

Postby Master Gunner » 01 May 2012, 15:18

From NTB:
Jian DeLeon wrote:Sometimes I compare jawns coppery to that scene in LOTR when Merry is like ‘what about SECOND breakfast?’ The average dude is like ‘I already have a blue blazer,’ and we’re like ‘bitch, this is a periwinkle glenplaid with a 3/2 roll and double-vented. The other one I have is single-vented sky blue windowpane.’


Just found it humourous, and essentially why I still frequent thrift stores, despite having just rebuilt my wardrobe.
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 03 May 2012, 14:34

Reddit actually taught me something worthwhile today; the 'military tuck' for shirts. If you have issues with billowing/blousing with your tucked in shirts, check it out.

Apologies in advance; it's a MySpace video.
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JackSlack
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 03 May 2012, 18:11

Grumble. First choice regarding making a bespoke suit: Starting price, $5,500. Yeah, I'm out.

Goddamit. Why is fashion so fucking hard?
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 03 May 2012, 19:26

You're just stressing too much. Fashion is fun!
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JackSlack
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 03 May 2012, 19:55

FWIW, Duckay has already found some other possibilities. Met, what do you make of http://www.tailor.com.au/ ? Despite the generic URL, it's the best lead we've got on a decent suit for me.

Edit: Hmm. A trip to Styleforum is not reassuring.

I'm standing by my previous statements. Fashion is stressful and annoying.

Further edit: Not a one of my enquiries has shown up even one plausible lead for a bespoke suit under 2k. I'm pretty sure such a thing cannot be done in Sydney. Fashion, you can keep it, I say.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 04 May 2012, 02:09

under 2k for bespoke is just not going to happen I think. Made to measure should not be a problem, but bespoke just involves too much "hands-on hours"
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JackSlack
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 04 May 2012, 02:13

Dutch guy wrote:under 2k for bespoke is just not going to happen I think. Made to measure should not be a problem, but bespoke just involves too much "hands-on hours"


I'm thinking you're right. It looks like the first one I found is the right price range; bespoke is 5k and up. Which means I'm probably never finding a suit that fits me.
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 04 May 2012, 03:37

Can't remember seeing any pics of you, but are you really that weirdly proportioned? I'd think a made-to-measure suit could fit right, if the measuring was done right. Possibly even done by a tailor.
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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 04 May 2012, 07:57

Don't give up
It's just the weight of the world
When your heart's heavy
I...I will lift it for you

Don't give up
Because you want to be heard
If silence keeps you
I...I will break it for you

Everybody wants to be understood
Well I can hear you
Everybody wants to be loved
Don't give up
Because you are loved

Don't give up
It's just the hurt that you hide
When you're lost inside
I...I will be there to find you

Don't give up
Because you want to burn bright
If darkness blinds you
I...I will shine to guide you

Everybody wants to be understood
Well I can hear you
Everybody wants to be loved
Don't give up
Because you are loved

You are loved
Don't give up
It's just the weight of the world
Don't give up
Every one needs to be heard
You are loved
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Matt
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Re: Menswear

Postby Matt » 04 May 2012, 09:56

JackSlack wrote:I'm thinking you're right. It looks like the first one I found is the right price range; bespoke is 5k and up. Which means I'm probably never finding a suit that fits me.



MTM should get you pretty darn close. Certainly closer than OTR. And if you do MTM from a place that manufactures locally, you can probably get in for a partial fitting.

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Metcarfre
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Re: Menswear

Postby Metcarfre » 04 May 2012, 10:06

Yeah, MTM is definitely doable. Bespoke is for the hardcore and/or rich. Let us know if you have any specific questions. Unfortunately we can't guide you as to specific makers (not being Australian) but we can definitely help as to fit, style, material, etc. Pics whenever you have them, please!
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JackSlack
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Re: Menswear

Postby JackSlack » 04 May 2012, 12:33

I'm unfortunately really awfully shaped on just about every front, actually.

Body is short and wide; footballer type. I'm maybe 5'7" at a stretch, but built with wide shoulders and trunk. Lousy for suits.

Feet wise, my left foot is at least half a size smaller than my right. Probably more. Shoe shopping is a pain.

And my head is weirdly round. Hats never fit me right.

There is a reason I find fashion infuriating.
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Dutch guy
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 05 May 2012, 07:58

I'll admit that makes things harder, but not impossible. A good made-to-measure suit should be possible within that pricerange. (Unfortunaly I can't help on that much, being on the other side of the planet)
THE DUTCH!! THE DUTCH AGAIN!!!!!
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Master Gunner
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Re: Menswear

Postby Master Gunner » 06 May 2012, 12:13

One thing I've noticed of late is that I can no longer comfortably wear t-shirts. While I do look better wearing polos and dress shirts, unfortunately it makes it far more difficult to wear LRR. I have a half-dozen LRR shirts, and I can't remember the last time I wore any of them. :(

LRR should make a polo shirt, is what I'm trying to get at here.
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Dutch guy
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Re: Menswear

Postby Dutch guy » 07 May 2012, 03:22

Master Gunner wrote:LRR should make a polo shirt, is what I'm trying to get at here.


This.

I don't wear t-shirts, ever. I wear a Polo shirt just about daily though. Especially in the summer months
THE DUTCH!! THE DUTCH AGAIN!!!!!
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Lord Chrusher
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Re: Menswear

Postby Lord Chrusher » 07 May 2012, 03:36

I would also buy and wear a LRR polo.
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